![]() Please contact these manufacturers for instructions on how to use an inductive pickup with their systems. Some aftermarket ignition systems and/or specialty spark plug wires (solid core wires, racing wires, off-road wires) radiate above normal ElectroMagnetic Interference (EMI) and Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) which can cause improper operation of testing equipment.If the Digital Timing Light readout becomes inoperative or locks up during use, disconnect and reconnect the timing light's positive battery clip from the battery to reset the unit.OBSERVE ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.ĮMI/RFI problems with Digital Timing Lights: Turn off ignition before connecting (or disconnecting) any testing equipment.ĪLWAYS READ THE VEHICLE'S SERVICE MANUAL BEFORE PERFORMING ANY PROCEDURE. DO NOT smoke or allow spark or flame near the battery.īE CAREFUL when working near high-voltage parts (spark plugs or coil terminals). The vehicle battery produces explosive gases. WHEN USING THE TIMING LIGHT, THESE PARTS MAY APPEAR TO BE STOPPED OR MOVING SLOWLY. Put blocks on drive wheels.Īvoid moving fan blades or any potentially moving parts. Put transmission in "park" (for automatic) or "neutral" (for manual). Only work on a vehicle in a well-ventilated area. Always observe safety precautions whenever working on a vehicle.ĭO NOT wear loose clothing, watches, rings or other jewelry when working on a vehicle. If you haven't loosened the distributor hold down bolt, the timing should be close enough to start.ġ) installed wrong rotor button, (I've seen some that look the same but mount 180 degrees off)Ģ) installed your wires in the wrong order (most likely) Rotate the engine while watching the rotor button to determine proper distributor rotation, stop it at TDC # 1 cyl, see where the rotor button is pointing. If you haven't pulled the distributor out it won't be 180 off. You said you have fuel but is it being sprayed inside the carb when the throttle is opened? You haven't told us what your engine is doing, is it backfiring? Is it trying to start? or is it just turning over? If it's just turning over without kicking it might be a fuel problem. My grandpa used to (maybe still does?) have a timing light that just hooked in line with the spark plug to flash a xenon bulb. Any tips or tricks to make the signal "stronger" for the inductive pickup? I can get a fat blue spark on the old plugs at the end of the plug wires. When I hook the timing light up to the coil wire I get flashes and an RPM readout on the display, but that doesn't help me set timing on the distributor. ![]() ![]() I want to make sure that the timing is correct, or at least close to factory spec. I couldn't find the factory spec but thats what the plugs I removed were gapped at. I verified that the coil and rotor are the same as what got burnt by the carb fire (it only melted part of the cap, but I replaced everything) I wasn't able to get points for it today so I cleaned up the old ones so the contacts are nice and shiny. Before I got it this motor suffered a carb fire and so it has new plugs, cap, rotor, coil, wires and condenser. I suspect a timing problem as the engine will not start, it has good compression and fuel. From the coil, I have a strong spark that will jump a 5/16" gap and is pretty thick and blue. I do not have a feeler gauge set so I set the points with a business card. I've only got one timing light, an Equus Innova digital, not far from this one (although this one looks a bit newer) I'm working on an old ford industrial motor, complete with points, coil and all that good stuff.
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